Low water pressure well troubleshooting

Low Water Pressure from Well: 10 Causes & Solutions

Updated February 2026 | By Southern California Well Service

Quick Answer: Low well water pressure is usually caused by: pressure switch set too low, waterlogged tank, clogged filter, or worn pump. Quick fixes: adjust switch settings (try 40/60), recharge tank air, replace filters. If pump can't deliver more pressure, you may need pump service or replacement.

What's Normal Well Water Pressure?

Typical Pressure Settings

  • 30/50: Pump on at 30 PSI, off at 50 PSI (common)
  • 40/60: Pump on at 40 PSI, off at 60 PSI (higher pressure)
  • 50/70: Pump on at 50 PSI, off at 70 PSI (high pressure)

Ideal Household Pressure

Most homes work best at 45-60 PSI. Below 40 PSI feels weak. Above 70 PSI stresses plumbing.

How to Check Your Pressure

  1. Look at pressure gauge near tank
  2. Or use a hose bib gauge ($10-$15 at hardware store)
  3. Note: pressure fluctuates between cut-in and cut-off

10 Common Causes of Low Pressure

1. Pressure Switch Set Too Low

The switch may be set to 30/50 when you need 40/60.

  • Fix: Adjust switch or replace with higher setting
  • Cost: $0-$250

2. Waterlogged Pressure Tank

Tank lost its air charge, so water flow is inconsistent.

  • Signs: Pressure fluctuates rapidly, pump cycles frequently
  • Fix: Recharge air or replace tank
  • Cost: $75-$1,200

3. Clogged Sediment Filter

Dirty filter restricts flow.

  • Signs: Pressure drops gradually over time
  • Fix: Replace filter cartridge
  • Cost: $10-$50

4. Worn Pump Impellers

Pump can't generate as much pressure as when new.

  • Signs: Gradual decline over months/years
  • Fix: Replace pump
  • Cost: $1,500-$4,000

5. Low Water Level in Well

Pump is pulling air, reducing effective pressure.

  • Signs: Sputtering, air in lines, worse during dry season
  • Fix: Lower pump, reduce usage, or deepen well
  • Cost: $500-$15,000

6. Partially Closed Valve

A gate valve or ball valve isn't fully open.

  • Signs: Low pressure everywhere, sudden onset
  • Fix: Open the valve completely
  • Cost: $0

7. Clogged Pipes (Scale/Mineral Buildup)

Older galvanized pipes can clog with mineral deposits.

  • Signs: Old house, galvanized plumbing, gradual decline
  • Fix: Re-pipe with copper or PEX
  • Cost: $2,000-$15,000

8. Failing Pressure Regulator

If you have a regulator, it may be stuck or set wrong.

  • Signs: Pressure inconsistent, regulator installed
  • Fix: Adjust or replace regulator
  • Cost: $100-$400

9. Undersized Pump

Pump can't keep up with demand, especially during peak usage.

  • Signs: Pressure fine with one fixture, drops with multiple
  • Fix: Install larger pump
  • Cost: $1,500-$4,000

10. Well Screen Clogging

The well screen (at bottom of well) is blocked by sediment or bacteria.

  • Signs: Declining flow over time
  • Fix: Well rehabilitation (cleaning)
  • Cost: $1,000-$5,000

How to Diagnose

Step 1: Check Pressure Gauge

  • What's the current reading?
  • What does it reach when pump shuts off?
  • Does it hold or drop quickly?

Step 2: Check Pressure Tank

  • Tap tank from top to bottom
  • Should be hollow at top, solid at bottom
  • If solid throughout = waterlogged

Step 3: Check Filters

  • When were they last replaced?
  • Pull and inspect—are they clogged?

Step 4: Check for Partial Valve Closure

  • Trace pipe from tank to house
  • Ensure all valves are fully open

Step 5: Test at Different Locations

  • Low pressure at one fixture = local issue
  • Low everywhere = system issue

Quick Fixes to Try First

1. Replace Sediment Filter

Cheapest fix—costs $10-$50 and takes 10 minutes.

2. Recharge Tank Air

  1. Turn off pump
  2. Drain tank through hose bib
  3. Add air through valve to 2 PSI below cut-in
  4. Turn pump back on

3. Adjust Pressure Switch

Increase settings from 30/50 to 40/60:

  1. Turn off power
  2. Remove switch cover
  3. Turn large nut clockwise (increases both cut-in and cut-off)
  4. Test and adjust

Caution: Don't exceed pump's capacity or tank rating.

4. Open Valves Fully

Check all valves between tank and fixtures.

How to Permanently Increase Pressure

Option 1: Adjust/Replace Pressure Switch

  • Raise settings to 40/60 or 50/70
  • Ensure pump can deliver that pressure
  • Cost: $0-$250

Option 2: Install Constant Pressure System

  • Variable speed pump maintains constant pressure
  • No more fluctuation between cut-in/cut-off
  • Cost: $2,000-$5,000

Option 3: Add Booster Pump

  • Secondary pump increases pressure after tank
  • Good if main pump can't deliver higher pressure
  • Cost: $500-$2,000

Option 4: Replace with Higher-Capacity Pump

  • If current pump is undersized or worn
  • Cost: $1,500-$4,000

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my well water pressure low?

Most common causes: pressure switch set too low, waterlogged tank, clogged filter, or worn pump. Check switch settings and filter first—those are easy fixes.

How do I increase water pressure from my well?

Adjust pressure switch to higher settings (40/60), recharge tank air, replace filters. For permanent increase, consider constant pressure system or booster pump.

What PSI should my well pressure be?

Most homes work best at 45-60 PSI. A 40/60 switch setting provides this range. Below 40 PSI feels weak for showers.

Why does my pressure drop when I turn on multiple faucets?

This indicates pump or system can't keep up with demand. Causes: undersized pump, low well yield, or significant restriction in pipes.

Can I adjust my pressure switch myself?

Yes, but be careful. Don't exceed pump's capacity or tank rating. Turning the large nut clockwise increases both cut-in and cut-off pressure.

Still Have Low Pressure?

See our diagnostic services and pump repair.